a complete range of solid wood accessories

Here at Woodenfloors.uk.com we offer a complete range of solid wood accessories to compliment your new timber floors.  Along with these we offer range of standard poly foam and rubber compound underlays with built in DPM’s and a selection of decible rated noise reduction underlays, if required.  Take a look through our product range, for more information and prices, contact us on 020 7625 1701, or email enquire@woodenfloors.uk.com

a complete range of solid wood accessories

L Section / End Cap

L Section or End Cap is required when finishing to a front, back or patio door or to a fireplace or to frame a mat well.

Rebated R Section / Ramp Reducer

Rebated R Section or Ramp Reducer is required when the finishing floor is higher than the floor it adjoins to.  For instance a carpet, tiled or lino type floor.

T Section / Flat Section

T Section or Flat Section is required where two floor levels are the same in height either by wood to wood or wood to tile or in some cases wood to carpet.

Wood to Carpet Section / Semi Reducer

Wood to Carpet Section or Semi Reducer is required where the floor heights are only within a 5 -10 mm difference.  More commonly this would be used for where there is carpet covering or tile.

Scotia / Perimeter Beading

Scotia or Perimeter Beading is required where the skirting boards are insitu and the expansion gap needs to be covered.

15 mm Solid Stair Nosing

15 mm Solid Stair nosing to finish the floors at a step or when cladding a stair case to match your new floors.

20 mm Solid Stair Nosing

20 mm Solid Stair nosing to finish the floors at a step or when cladding a stair case to match your new floors.

Technics 5 Rubber Underlay

Technics 5 Rubber Underlay.  Best for installations where noise reduction needs to meet a certain criteria.  Upto 27dB reduction on transmitted impact noise-5 mm thickness.

Duralay Heatflow Underlay

Duralay Heatflow Underlay.  To used for certain Underfloor Heating Systems (call for details) 3 mm thickness.  Important: A 1000 gauge DPM is required when laying over a concrete subfloor.

Timbermate Excel Silver Underlay

Timbermate Excel Silver Underlay. To be used where there is a concrete slab or where moisture could be an issue (not exceeding 75% RH) Upto 23dB reduction on transmitted impact noise-3.6 mm thickness.

Timbermate Silent Floor Gold

Timbermate Silent Floor Gold.  The ultimate solution to noisy laminate or engineered wood floors.  Offers the highest acoustic performance from the Duralay range with a built in DPM barrier protecting against moisture (not exceeding 75% RH).  Upto 24dB reduction on transmitted impact noise-4.2 mm thickness.

Standard Poly Foam Underlay

Standard Poly foam Underlay to be used where impact noise and sub floor moisture is not an issue-2.5 mm thickness

Sikabond T54 Trowelled Flexible Wood Adhesive

Sikabond T54 Trowelled Flexible Wood Adhesive.  Compatible with underfloor heating if required. For use on most solid strip and engineered wood flooring.

Sika Primer MB 1 Coat Solvent Free Moisture Barrier Primer

Sika Primer MB 1 Coat Solvent Free Moisture Barrier Primer.  Excellent adhesion promoter over mastic asphalt and ‘old’ adhesive residues.  Strengthens dusty substrates, tinted blue for visual control.  Moisture barrier system up to 4% moisture by volume (75% RH).  Drying time 12 hours at 20c

underfloor heating

wood-22  heatflow

The growing popularity in the use of underfloor heating presents considerable challenges when used with hardwood flooring. But when properly installed it can result in increased enjoyment in the use of your floor.

In general we would always recommend that where underfloor heating is being used then a Real Wood Engineered floor should ONLY be installed in preference to a Solid Wood floor due to the increased stability that a multi-layered construction provides.

The important factors that you must consider when deciding whether you use underfloor heating with your new floor are:

1. Underfloor heating should not be turned on and off suddenly, nor should the temperatures be raised or lowered quickly, as this will result in dimensional changes to the timber which can cause the floor to shrink and crack.
2. Underfloor heating should ideally be left on all the time with the temperature being raised and lowered slowly 1°C per day to accommodate the needs of the different seasons. By having steady heat the timber will remain stable and provide a warm and pleasant atmosphere in your home.
3. You must NEVER install underfloor heating over a concrete subfloor that has a moisture content of more than 75% relative humidity. Make sure your installer has checked this before proceeding with the installation.
4. Certain timbers are more stable than others when used with underfloor heating and this is indicated for each floor in this catalogue to help you decide on the most suitable floor for your requirements.
5. All Real Wood Engineered tongue and groove floors should always be stuck down using a compatible Flexible Wood Adhesive with a fully bonded surface.
Real Wood Engineered floors with a glueless locking joint can, in most cases, be floated over underfloor heating subject to suitability of species.

Installation:

To help the understanding of how timber floors react with underfloor heating we have compiled a brief explanation of the factors you need to take into account to make your installation a success.

Each manufacturer has their own recommendations as to the best methods of installation, however in general it is recognised that both water heated and electrical systems should, in the case of a concrete subfloor, be within a screed; in the case of a timber subfloor the method of fixing will vary according to the manufacturer’s recommendations depending on whether it is a water heated system, electric elements or carbon foil sheets.

The timber:

Not all timbers react well with underfloor heating so it is important to choose one of the floors that is recommended for use with this system. Each floor from our range carries a recommendation as to its suitability. Timber is a hydroscopic material which means that it absorbs moisture from the environment into which it is installed, and it undergoes dimensional changes as it does so. As well as absorbing moisture it will also give off moisture.

When timber absorbs moisture it causes the boards to expand and when it gives off moisture it causes the boards to shrink. The most important factor that influences this reaction is humidity. The subfloor: It is therefore of utmost importance that the moisture content of the subfloor onto which your floor will be laid is of the correct moisture levels. With concrete subfloors the moisture levels should not exceed 75% Relative Humidity (RH) and should preferably be below 70% RH to give a margin for error. Always ensure that your installer checks this measurement before installing your floor. If the RH is higher than 75% you must not proceed with the installation without either having sealed the floor using one of our damp proof preparation products or waited for the subfloor to dry to below the 75% RH. In the case of timber subfloors it is important that the moisture content of the subfloor does not exceed 11% Wood Moisture Equivalent (WME). Again, ensure that your installer has checked this prior to installation and if the measurements exceed this then one of our damp proof preparation products must be used prior to installation proceeding.

The choice of systems:

There are two main types of system available with many variations from different manufacturers, but essentially they will either be water heated or electrically heated systems. Whichever you choose the temperature below the floor must never exceed 27°C. In general, water heated systems are normally found in new build or renovation projects, due to the complications of retro-fitting them into an existing building without causing undue levels of disruption. Electrically heated systems are generally found in situations where installation is required to be relatively quick and easy. It is vital that you do not overheat the floor and it is therefore essential that thermostatic probes are installed at various points over the area of the floor to ensure that this does not happen. The effects of overheating can seriously damage your floor. It is important to note that you should never make dramatic increases or decreases to the temperature under your floor. This should be done gradually over a period of days to prevent excessive expansion or contraction of your floor.

Maximum temperatures:

The maximum water or electrical element temperature should not be greater than 50°C. The maximum temperature at the underside of the timber should never exceed 27°C.

General guidelines for installation:

Prior to fitting your floor, the underfloor heating should, in the case of a water heated system, be fully pressurised, tested for leaks and run, usually for a fortnight, but certainly until all the moisture in the screed or timber subfloor has been driven off.

Plaster should be dry and all the wet trades finished in the rooms to which the flooring is to be fitted. The relative humidity in the room should be between 40% and 60% RH. To carry out a simple but effective test if you do not have a moisture meter, lay a polythene sheet over a subfloor area of minimum 1m2 and weight it down to prevent accidental removal – preferably use as large an area as possible. Turn the heating system on and leave for 3 days. After 3 days (less if the test proves positive earlier) if there are beads of moisture or fine misting on or under the polythene, the subfloor is not dry and the new floor must not be fitted. Either the floor must be given time to dry naturally, or one of the Woodpecker damp proofing systems can be used prior to the installation proceeding.

Heating during and after fitting:

The underfloor system should be turned off while the floor is being laid, normally for at least 48 hours prior to installation. Only electrical heating or central heating should be used during installation. Propane or blown air heaters should not be used as they release a lot of moisture into the atmosphere. After fitting, the floor should be left for 2-3 days to fully acclimatise to its new surroundings and if relevant for any adhesive to fully cure before the heating is switched on. The heat should be raised gently by 1°C per day from the prevailing ambient temperature. It must not be turned full on straight away. As a general rule this method of gradually increasing and decreasing temperatures should be followed in the day to day running of your system.

These guidelines are not exhaustive and are provided to give a general understanding of how the systems work. They do not replace the need to follow the recommended fitting procedures of each individual manufacturer.

Call us now to find out more on 020 7625 1701